How To Care Of Dwarf Banana Tree

Overview

The dwarf banana tree (Musa acuminata) is a popular plant for those with small plots of land or patio gardens. Dwarf banana trees grow 6 to 8 feet tall and produce 4-inch bananas. Caring for the dwarf tree is identical to caring for the standard-size banana tree, with the exception of those being grown in containers. Pot-grown dwarf banana trees require a bit more attention so that the soil doesn't dry out. The dwarf banana tree can be grown outdoors in USDA Hardiness Planting zones 9 to 11.

Step 1

Give the dwarf banana tree as much warmth as possible. Plant it next to the house where it can receive radiant heat, or, if you are growing your dwarf banana in a pot, place it in the warmest, sunniest area of the yard.

Step 2

Provide the dwarf banana tree with well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. Plant in pots with equal parts of sphagnum peat moss and potting soil. Plant in the garden using peat moss as mulch, applying a 3-inch layer to the base of the plant and spreading it out in a 3-foot radius.

Step 3

Water the dwarf banana tree to keep the soil consistently moist. Don't allow the soil, whether in a pot or the garden, to dry out.

Step 4

Mist the banana plant frequently if the weather is particularly dry.

Step 5

Fertilize the mature dwarf banana plant monthly with an 8-10-8 formula. Spread 1 lb. of fertilizer on the soil beneath the tree (do not allow the fertilizer to touch the trunk) and spread it in a 4-foot radius around the tree. Fertilize pot-grown dwarf banana trees with the same formula according to the rate suggested on the package for potted plants. Water after fertilizing.

Step 6

Prune off any shoots growing from the bottom of the plant to allow the dwarf banana plant to spend all of its energy on the main shoot.

Step 7

Protect the dwarf banana tree from winter frost by digging it up, placing it in a pot with potting mix and bringing it indoors to a warm, light area. Keep the soil moist over the winter.

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What Maximum Tall Does a Dwarf Orange Tree Grow

If you want to grow oranges but only have a small yard, the dwarf orange tree might suit you well. Dwarf trees provide the delicate blossoms, fresh fragrance and juicy fruit of an orange tree, just in a smaller package.

  -  Function                                                           

Dwarf fruit trees seem designer-made these days. Most varieties are composed of two parts: a scion (or trunk and leaves) of one tree grafted onto the rootstock of a different tree. The scion choice dictates the type of oranges the tree will produce, while the rootstock determines the height of the tree.

  -  Significance                                                     

Dwarfing rootstocks are not all alike. Arborists have developed rootstocks that limit the tree's growth to three-quarters, one-half and even a third of the size of a regular orange tree. To know the mature height of a dwarf orange, ask your nursery about the specifications of the rootstock used.

  -  Considerations                                                 

You might expect that all parts of a dwarf orange tree will be small, but this is not true. The leaves and fruit of a dwarf orange tree will be the same as a full-size tree. Only the height will be different. According to the National Gardening Association, standard orange trees grow 18 to 22 feet tall, while dwarf varieties stay between 8 and 12 feet.

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Overwinter a Dwarf Orange Tree

The dwarf orange tree is any orange tree that does not reach mature heights higher than 10 feet. Other than the size, there are few differences between the dwarf orange tree and any standard sized orange tree. The process of overwintering a dwarf orange tree is the same process as any standard size orange tree, though the dwarf tree often encounters additional overwintering options because of its smaller size. The dwarf orange tree’s variety will determine how much overwintering it requires to survive the dormancy period.

  -  Instructions                                                             

1
Harvest the dwarf orange tree daily in the fall until all the oranges have been removed from the tree. Complete this harvesting process to reduce the potential for fungal and bacterial diseases during the following growing season.

2
Prune your dwarf orange tree to prepare it for its dormancy. Cut away any dead, broken or damaged branches and stems with sharp, sterile pruning shears. Remove any water sprouts from the dwarf tree’s canopy. Identify water sprouts as any branches that grow in directions that are unnatural to the canopy’s overall growth, such as branches that cross or grow straight up.

3
Thin out the tree’s dense canopy to increase the air circulation and light penetration throughout the tree. Remove and trim back selected exterior canopy branches that limit the flow of air and light throughout the tree. Trim the canopy lightly as needed to develop the tree’s shape.

4
Remove all defoliation and debris from around the tree’s planting area. Pull any weeds or competitive growth from the area. Be sure to remove weeds from the root to prevent regrowth. Line a thick, 4- to 5-inch layer of mulch over the dwarf orange tree’s planting area to protect the roots from the harsh winter elements. Keep the mulch at least a foot away from the base of the tree to prevent potential root rot.

5
Move your dwarf orange tree indoors if it is a container-bound tree. Place the tree in a cool, dry location that has good air circulation. Keep the indoor temperature between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit to keep the tree dormant during the winter months but do not allow the temperatures to fall below freezing, as freezing temperatures can injure, if not kill, the dwarf orange tree. Place the container-bound dwarf orange tree outdoors after the final frost.

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How To Care Of Dwarf Santarosa Plum Tree

Dwarf Santa Rosa plum trees grow to about 8-10 feet tall, much smaller than their standard counterpart. Your dwarf tree will provide you with a lot of fruit as long as you properly care for it with the right amount of water, soil nutrients and pruning. Expect to see fruit in mid-June, and therefore plan your pruning and replanting (if it is in a pot) during times when the tree is not giving fruit.

1

Replant your tree every 2 years by removing it from its container and shaking the roots off. Place it in a new container with three inches of soil and compost on the bottom. Lay the roots in and cover with soil, composting the top layer.

Replanting gives roots enough room to grow and support the increased number of branches. Replant the tree in the fall when it is going into dormancy.

2

Expose your tree to sunshine. Dwarf Santa Rose plum trees need a lot of sunshine in order to remain healthy.

3

Water every week if there is no rainfall. Allow the entire pot to soak up water. If you notice that a lot of leaves are turning brown or dying, you should check the soil and maybe add more water.

4

Prune your tree regularly. Remove broken branches and trim the top of the tree at least every 2 years. Removing branches that don't flower help provide nourishment to branches that do.

5

Remove one-quarter of the shoots as the tree blooms. This helps your tree produce larger fruit.

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Dwarf Hydrangea Trees

Hydrangea are vibrant, eye-catching trees for the shade to partial-shade landscape. They can have pink, white or blue flowers depending upon the acidity of the soil. Four classes of hydrangeas exist: big leaf, oak leaf, panicle and smooth. Mophead and lacecap are the two styles of flowers. Hydrangeas vary in size, but they are generally too big for small spaces. Dwarf or peewee sizes are now available for containers and smaller gardening areas; they carry the same characteristics and amazing blooms that the bigger plants have, scaled down into a diminutive package.

Oakleaf                                                             

Oakleaf, named for its large, lobed leaves in the shape of an oak's leaf, are native to the U.S. The flowers can come in double- or single-petal styles. The new smaller cultivars fit into spaces about 4 to 6 feet wide. Sikes Dwarf is a white hydrangea that stays compact even in the shade. PeeWee is an oakleaf hydrangea that is perfect for small spaces and blooms heavily all summer. Oakleaf hydrangeas reward the grower with a spectacular color show in fall.

Big Leaf Hydrangeas                                       

Big leaf hydrangeas can grow to 5 or 6 feet in just a few years and require extensive pruning. Compact big leaf hydrangeas need no pruning. They mostly sport the giant mophead type of flower bit the stems are sturdy enough to support them. The flowers differ in the colors and tones, as well as the color of the center eye and the maturing color. 'Venice' is an allover true blue and 'Raga' is a faded blue with a green eye. 'Paris Rapa' matures to a deep fuchsia pink, while 'Ramars' turns a deep green as it ages. Probably more dwarf cultivars of macrophylla exist than the other hydrangea styles.

Panicle Hydrangeas                                           

The panicle hydrangeas also come in a dwarf size. Little Lamb is a white flowering hydrangea with the smallest flower petals of any hydrangea. The petals are less than 2 inches long as opposed to the 4 to 6 inch that is standard for hydrangeas. It is late blooming in midsummer and lasts until autumn. The flowers start out white and blush pink as they age. Little Lime, a dwarf form of Limelite, has a yellowish-green flower. Both dwarfs are actually suitable for full-sun areas and are drought tolerant. Both hydrangeas can get 6 to 8 feet tall but are still considered dwarf varieties due to the ease of pruning them down and their compact nature.

Hydrangea Arboresens                                      

Smooth-leaved hydrangea are native to the United States. Not a lot of dwarfs of this type exist due to the huge flowers. 'Pia' does a good job of fitting the dwarf size with the multiflora blooms that arboresens is known for. It gets only 2 feet tall by 2 feet wide with massive pink flowers. The flowers remain pink regardless of the acidity of the soil.

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Dwarf Avocado Trees

Avocado trees come in a wide variety of cultivars that vary in the thickness of the skin and oil content of the fruit. Types also vary in their size, yield, salt tolerance, flesh quality and resistance to disease.

  -  Dwarf Avocado Varieties                        

Plant scientists developed a number of dwarf varieties of avocado suitable for growing in small spaces and containers. The "Little Cado" variety is the only true dwarf variety of avocado and will consistently product good fruit from May to September, according to the National Gardening Association.

  -  Avocado Cultivation                                

Avocados need well-draining soil and do not thrive in clay soils that hold water at the root area. Plant avocados outdoors in raised beds at least 1 to 2 inches above the soil level. Do not plant the trees too deep. A 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch around the trees will help retain water and improve soil quality. Dwarf varieties in containers need frequent watering, according to FourWindsGrowers. Frequent pinching of young tree stems help to keep the tree in the desired shape. Plant windbreaks around avocado trees to protect them from strong winds. Fertilize with a well-balanced citrus food on a regular basis. Avocadoes will not ripen while still on the tree. Harvest when fruits are of mature size and still firm. They will ripen in one or two weeks at room temperature.

  -  Avocado Problems                                   

Though most avocado trees are self-fertile, some may suffer from pollination problems that prevent fruit growth. Planting with other avocado trees is recommended. Leafroller caterpillars can destroy branch tips. Six-spotted mites often cause large amounts of leaf shedding, while dothiorella canker can cause odorous, rotted areas in the trunk of trees. Root rot is often transferred from plant to plant on garden tools. A viral disease, sun bloth can cause yellowing of leaves and deformed fruit. To prevent the transfer of pathogens from plant to plant, clean garden tools with a 10 percent bleach solution between each use. Avocado plants, particularly young ones, can be damaged by sudden frosts and should be covered with blankets, sheets or landscape cloth for protection in cold weather.

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Pruning Dwarf Spirea

  1-  What to Prune                              

Prune spring-blooming dwarf spirea shrubs back immediately after the flowering display ends in mid- or late spring. Cut back all branch tips to an even, lower height across the entire plant. The shrub may be cut back in height as much as three-quarters and it will still rejuvenate. Summer- and fall-blooming spirea shrubs may be cut back severely in very late winter to main branch stubs that are 4 to 6 inches tall.

  2-  Types                                            

Knowing when the dwarf spirea blooms provides insight as to when to prune. Spring-flowering spirea bloom from buds on branches that matured the previous fall. These branches are often referred to as "old wood" or year-old branches. These shrubs should be pruned right after the blooms are finished. Conversely, spirea shrubs that bloom in summer and intermittently into fall up until frost produce flower buds on current year's growth -- those twigs that grew since spring. These shrubs should be pruned in very late winter just before the plants leave dormancy.

  3-  Landscape Use                             

Dwarf spirea shrubs may be used as a low edging or hedge in gardens or as small-sized accent flowering shrubs. If flowering is not important to you or the integrity of the garden design, all spirea shrubs -- regardless of season of bloom -- may be pruned back in late winter each year to control size. New growth occurs in response, with lush foliage. If the dwarf spirea shrubs need to display flowers each year to meet your aesthetic needs, it's vital to prune at the correct time to ensure you are not removing flower buds.

  4-  Pruning Insight                             

Light trimming of branch tips across spring and summer, cutting off 1 to 2 inches, is acceptable practice on spirea shrubs, especially if you wish to maintain a certain height or symmetry. However, do not prune or trim past midsummer -- around August 1 in the United States -- as any new growth shoots that sprout will likely not mature in time before the onset of fall frosts. Fall frost will burn or kill back the immature new growth, potentially weakening or stressing the shrubs heading into their winter dormancy.